Nord Boards
Archive for the ‘Accessories’ Category
Landyachtz Evo
This board was designed by a world champion racer with racing in mind. The Evo is the Mach 5 of boards, it’s unique 2″ dropped deck is what us boarders would refer to as “saucy”. It keeps your feet locked in place and sets you lower to the ground than any drop through mounted truck will get you giving you the ultimate stability, and feel for turns and competes with the best of boards as far as speed goes. This board has been seen in more racing competitions than any other longboard for the past 3-4 years.
The Landyachtz Evo while being a prime racing board is perfect even for beginners looking for a good coasting/cruising board and is actually a bit cheaper than most freestyle and racing boards. The Evo comes with 180mm Randalls, 65mm BON wheels, and abec 5 bearings. While all of these are great if you’re not strapped for cash then I suggest getting gullwing chargers, a larger wheel, such as Orangatangs or abec 11′s and Bones reds or Bones Swiss bearings which are MY all time favorite and highest performing bearing we have.
The little things in life
Those hilarious conversations with friends, fishing with a grandparent, dollar tacos at your favorite Mexican restaurant, or heading down that road you don’t normally go down to get to your house even though it’s longer just to hit up that ever so relaxing hill. It’s these little things that make life…how do I even say it? Not boring. For me, all of these little things and the times I cherish happen simply because of my longboard. Not only does my longboard get me from my house to school, to a friends, and out to lunch, then to the movies, etc. It’s more than just a mode of transportation. It’s a life tool, I use it as a workbench, lean it against a wall and sleep on it, even use it to carry groceries in a store instead of using a cart.
My point is, purchasing a board is more than just buying a piece of wood with 4 wheels on it. It’s like buying a car, it becomes your “baby” and once you become comfortable with it, trust me, you’ll find more ways to use it then I explained above. Inevitably you’ll want every upgrade imaginable for your board, and walking into a board shop will eventually become like being a kid walking into a candy shop, I even remember the first board I got was from Loaded Longboards which was the newest company out at the time. I’ve had the board for 2-3 years now and it has never once dissapointed me, in fact, the only thing I’ve ever had to replace on it are my wheels because I’ve slid them down to almost nothing. Even if you’ve never touched or dreamed of touching a board in your life, I suggest at least purchasing a simple one and learning how to at least ride it, because eventually riding it will be more than pushing, kicking, coasting. It becomes this automatic thing that comes as natural as learning to walk again. Riding my board has always been an escape from that tedious feeling of waiting for getting from place to place (I HATE long walks, and car rides) and makes it become become an adventure, and getting somewhere becomes as exciting as getting there (Or more exciting depending).
Loaded Tan Tien
The Loaded Tan Tien is perfect for those who are more experienced and are looking for something more technical and really want to get more into the sport. Even if you’re completely new to longboarding this board is amazing, it has a mild foot locking concave as well as having drop through truck mounts that give you more stability at higher speeds and a lower center of gravity for longer coasting and more speed. Also, since there’s less space between the ground and the board there’s less disruption from things such as gravel, dirt, and grass making this essentially a monster truck of sorts. I recommend to the Tan Tien to anyone, and especially for those who want to expand their boarding repertoire.
The Tan Tien comes with Randall 180mm Silver trucks which are a perfect all around truck, especially for beginners, however we have a huge selection for those looking for a more specialized truck. The Tan Tien also comes with B-O-N 65mm wheels (in your choice of color) and rush abec 5 bearings but if you have the money I would suggest purchasing 70-75mm Orangatangs and Bones Reds or even Bones Swiss especially if you’re someone who wants to just coast along doing as little work as possible.
Loaded Dervish
The Loaded Dervish is a board that’s definitely going to impress any hardcore downhill riders or anyone looking for something that’s smooth riding for those long treks to who knows where. The Dervish was designed with a lower center of gravity in mind for easier sliding, more speed and stability down hills, easier pushing, and even comes with a small nose and tail for shuv-its and manual. It’s Loaded’s number 1 rated board right now, and let me tell you, it shows.
The Loaded’s all come with multiple flex’s for people of different weight or for long time riders who know how much flex they want in their board. The recommended setup for the Dervish would be 10″ Gullwing Chargers, 75mm Orangutang Durian wheels (color of choice) and Bones swiss bearings. However if you’re a little strapped for cash I suggest getting Bones Reds instead of the Swiss. This board was one of the first from the Loaded line and has made the Loaded company what it is today, I recommend it to anyone looking for a durable, high performance board whether you’re new to longboarding or you’ve been on board for years.
Hard times
As I’m sure you’re all aware of, the economy as a whole has been going through some pretty hard times. Insurance as well as vehicles have gone up in price. Gas prices are up to almost 4 dollars, if it’s not already in some places. It’s even expensive to ride the bus back and forth everyday or buy a pass every month. It takes about 50-60 dollars just to fill my tank now, and fixing a flat or getting a spare part? Forget it.
However, as far as transportation needs go, Nordboard’s has a cheaper alternative then the average run of the mill fiberglass covered station wagon. Gas, insurance, even most maintenance will be a thing of the past with the longboards we have to offer. Even if you’re completely new to longboarding it’s both worlds cheaper and quicker to pick up than a car (and far more relaxing than a bus in my opinion). Not only are all of those miniscule tasks out of the way, but parking and parking fees are also out of the equation. Whether you’re new to the longboarding scene or you’ve been tearing it up for awhile, Nordboard’s has all of the longboarding gear you could need and more, and if you have any questions don’t be afraid to comment.
Know Your Board
Today I want to focus on some aspects of the longboard, particularly riser pads and wheels. Riser pads are located between the trucks and deck of a longboard. Made of rubber or plastic, the pads help prevent damage to wooden decks from metal trucks. Riser pads also help prevent wheel bite and rail bite on drop decks.
Typically, longboard wheels are larger than average skateboard wheels. The reason for the difference in size is that larger wheels allow for more stability at high speeds. They can also handle rolling over rocks, sticks, and other obstacles in the street. Longboard wheels tend to fall in the 65 to 85 mm range.
ABEC Ratings: A Brief Overview
Introduction
Hi all! Gee I guess it has been awhile since the last post. That’s life though, things come and go. I was thinking about what to write about today when I heard someone mention the ABEC rating system and the confusion surrounding it. To us here at the shop the ABEC bearing rating system is like the Durometer rating of wheels, we just live around it enough that we hardly notice it anymore. Not everyone is lucky enough to be involved with skate components on a daily basis though, so we get asked questions about it all the time. Considering that, I think today is a good day to give you guys an informative summary of the ABEC system and clear up a bit of that confusion.
Bones uses their Skate Rated™ system instead of ABEC
What is the ABEC system?
The ABEC rating system is an industry standard that defines ball bearing engineering tolerance levels and allows consumers to make an informed decision about the quality of bearing they are purchasing. It was originally developed by the Annular Bearing Engineering Committee (ABEC) of the American Bearing Manufacturer’s Association (ABMA). The exact definition of “Annular” varies according to your source but it simply means a shape that is or forms a ring. The ABEC ratings are:
- ABEC 1 (Lowest Required Engineering Tolerance)
- ABEC 3
- ABEC 5
- ABEC 7
- ABEC 9 (Highest Required Engineering Tolerance)
Note that the ABEC standard IS NOT associated with the skateboard products company Abec 11!
Well what does that mean?
Engineering tolerance levels in machine manufacturing refer to the limit of variation of (usually) a physical dimension. For example a mechanical part that has to be 1 inch tall could have a tolerance of +- 0.0001; meaning that it can vary AT MOST 1/10,000th of an inch from the specified 1 inch height. The higher the ABEC rating the smaller the tolerance (variation in size) for the part. The problem with larger tolerances (or lower ABEC ratings) is that that extra room between the ball bearing and the track it rides in will allow the ball to ‘wiggle’ from side to side while it rotates around the track in the bearing case. This ‘wiggling’ eats up energy (slowing down the bearing’s rotation) and decreases precision of the bearing. The precision of the bearing (and other concepts such as lubricant sheerdo not really concern us, but it is helpful to be aware of. What we are really concerned about is the ‘wiggle’ that absorbs energy. By bouncing back and forth along the track instead of rotating in a straight line, energy is stolen from the rotation and we slow down.
What is ABEC not?
The ABEC rating defines ONLY the engineering tolerances for annular bearings. There are many critical parameters that are left to the manufacturer to decide on (find a good manufacturer and you find a good bearing). It does NOT define:
- Materials quality
- Rotation speeds
- Component polish ratings
- Seal quality
- etc.
How do I choose an ABEC rating?
When it comes time to purchase that new set a bearings it is almost possible to become overwhelmed with the choices. This is where it all comes down to the ‘Price vs. Performance’ conundrum. For the average beginner, cheap skater, or hardcore smasher the best option is probably a cheaper set of disposable bearings rated at 3 or 5 that can be used, abused, and replaced fairly cheaply. The more performance minded skaters though (downhill skaters, speed skaters, professionals) will probably benefit more from the precision and speed that 7 or 9 can provide. Whatever bearing you do decide to go with, it is important to remind you to regularly clean and maintain your bearings for maximum performance. You can check out my post on how to clean bearings for more information.
Parting words…
The ABEC rating has become something of a mythological figure in the world of skateboarding. Everyone sees it and thinks they know what it means… but often even seasoned professionals don’t know it’s true purpose. However, the ABEC system only designates one small factor in the bearing’s overall performance. Ask your friends, neighbors, and other skaters what they think the best options are and try some of them out to see what you prefer. If you already know what kind you want or are just looking to shop around, check out our Skateboard Bearings page in the NordBoards store.
Skate to live, live to skate!
Thanks for reading,
Clayton C.
Wheels ‘n Deals: Stella & Sector 9 wheels on Sale now!
What did the inventor of the wheel think of his/her creation? Well we might never know… but we CAN know how to score some great deals on longboard wheels (if you know where to go). For a limited time only Boards on Nord is having a sale on Stella and Sector 9 slalom wheels!
This deal applies to the following wheels (while supplies last):
- Sale Price: $19.95
- Size (height): 69mm
- Style: Slalom
- Colors:
- Black
- Yellow
- Sale Price: $19.99
- Size (height): 69mm
- Style: Slalom
- Colors:
- Green
- Blue
- Orange
- White
- Ghost (opaque)
Mama said: Safety First!
Today is a beautiful new day. The skies are clear blue and we have a predicted high of 67° but… I can’t skate. That’s right, I can’t skate. Thursday during one of those “all -day” park sessions I hurt myself. I can’t remember whether it was in the bowl on the Tien, trying that ridiculous shove-it on the skateboard, or kicking myself for not being able to pull off something… but I managed to bang up my knee. It’s not the worst possible injury, but it will keep me off the board for a few days.
Safety is important. I know it, you know it, and our mom’s especially know it. Remember those geeky water wings as a kid? Anyway it is a great idea to protect yourself. If I had been wearing pads on Thursday maybe I would be skating today. But who knows right? I have found that alot of little injuries can bring you down as quickly as one big injury and a good set of pads plus a helmet can go a long way towards prolonging your sessions. So check our Protective Gear in the shop and skate longer. Have fun and be safe!
Skate to live, Live to skate!
Thanks for reading,
Clayton C.
Skate Weather
How To: Cleaning Skateboard Bearings
As my inaugural post to the Boards-on-Nord blog, I have decided to publish on a topic that I hold near and dear to my hill-bombing heart: Bearing Maintenance.
Bones Skateboard Bearing Cleaning Unit
In today’s world of mass production and ‘throw-away’ products it’s pretty easy to buy a $15 set of bearings, burn through them, and toss what’s left in the garbage. Now that might work for standard skateboards (aka trick decks) where speed and distance don’t factor in as much or for someone who only casually uses their longboard for transport, but for the performance minded ‘hill freaks’ out there it just won’t do. Let’s face it, you can’t just toss that $100+ pair of Bones Ceramics in the trash a month after you get them!
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Reasons for Maintenance.
Clean and adequately lubricated bearings are an essential piece of equipment for any skater. After all, they allow you to go right? Well there are several reasons why you should take care of them (besides $$). Properly maintained bearings can:
- Extend the life of your expensive equipment. By cleaning out all the old ‘burned-out’ bearing oil, metal shavings, rust, grit, and various other gunk that can build up in your bearing’s casing; you will prevent damage to the ball-bearings that would otherwise slow down their rotation speeds. Less rotation speed = less overall speed. So it can cost you that extra few m.p.h. you’ve been chasing all session.
- Keep you safe! Bearing lock-up is a dangerous possibility for any skater, but it can be deadly for longboarders. This condition occurs for two reasons: there is no lubricant to decrease friction in the bearing (which leads to a meltdown from heat buildup) or debris gets lodged in the ball-bearing track and prevents them from rotating (which results in a seizure). For the person riding the board either reason will cause their session to end badly. Even going at slow speeds a bearing lock-up will send the rider flying off the board. However imagine the result of that when bombing a hill…
- Extend the length of your sessions. For every action there is an opposite and equal reaction… It’s all physics right? By keeping your bearings clean you can save your energy for what really matters: riding. A gunky bearing does not rotate as easily or as quickly as it should. This means that you are expending more of your precious energy to keep the board at a constant speed than is necessary. This tires you out quicker and ends your session sooner!
All in all these are just a couple of the more immediate reasons for proper bearing maintenace that I could think of (at least for now). Additionally, these themes are important to understand in the initial bearing selection; which is a topic I will have to save for another day. In the following section I’ll guide you through the process of cleaning your bearings.
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One Step at a Time: Cleaning Your Bearings
Warning!: Due to the nature of the materials involved, I recommend that this be done by adults only.
There are a few essential tools that you will need before we begin:
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A container: I use and recommend the Bones Skateboard Bearing Cleaning Unit available on our webstore. This handy little unit can save you time and energy by eleminating the need to scrub, rinse, rotate, and repeat until clean. However, any sealable (non-food!) container will work in a pinch.
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A cleaning solution: I only use 90%+ Isopropyl Alcohol to clean my bearings. There are many other solutions that you can use to achieve the desired effect, but I find that Isopropyl Alcohol is the easiest to find (at the local store) and the safest to use (the fumes aren’t as bad). Important Note!: If you do choose to use Isopropyl Alcohol, only use a 90% or higher concentrated solution to clean your bearings! Anything lower than 90% will contain too much water that can oxidize the metal and lead to corrosion issues down the road (applies too).
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A skatetool: Time to break out your favorite skatetool! An adjustable wrench will do if you don’t have one. We carry an excellent All-in-One T-Tool in our store that provides all the function you’ll need if you don’t already own one.
- A sharp pointy object: For this any sharp, pointy object (knife) should work. However, if you use a bladed object you do run the risk of slicing into the rubber coating on the bearing cover. Damaging this cover will allow dirt and debris to enter the bearing more easily, thereby decreasing the bearings lifespan. I have found that sewing needles work best for prying off the bearing cover without damaging it too badly.
- A bearing lubricant: To provide adequate lubrication it is necessary to use the right kind: custom made for bearings. I use Bones Speed Cream. It’s all I’ve ever used anything else so I couldn’t recommend anything else. Don’t just use any old lubricant though.
- Cleanable bearings: Cheaper bearings are often permanently sealed inside metal or plastic housings that are not designed to be opened. To allow bearings to be maintained, more expensive sets usually have removeable rubber cover shields on one side (the side that faces out of the wheel) and an open inner side that shows the bearings.
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Cool! Now that we have all of the tools necessary, lets get down to the fun stuff. When cleaning your bearings make sure to do it in a well ventilated area to prevent fumes from making you sick. It also helps to have a clean, flat work surface that will not allow any parts to roll off onto the floor (I’ve lost enough hardware to know). Here are the steps you need to follow:
1. Use your skatetool to remove the wheels (with the bearings still in them) from the truck axle. Be careful not to lose the two washers on each wheel, these are important!
2. Use the axle of your skate-truck to pop the bearings out of the wheel’s core. This shouldn’t damage the axle threads on the truck, but if you really bear down on it you could. So be careful. Also if you have bearing spacers in the wheel (a small tube like object between the two bearings, in the core, that reduces lateral tensions) don’t lose them either.
3. Now that you have the wheel disassembled, take your needle and pry the rubber cover shield off each bearing. The best way to do this is to stick the pointy edge of your needle between the lip of the outer bearing casing and the outer edge of the rubber cover shield and use the needle to pry the cover out then off. Try not to damage the edge of the rubber cover shield. After disassembling the bearings you are ready to actually clean them.
4. If you are lucky enough to already have the Bones Bearing Cleaning Unit, alternately slide bearings and spacers onto the main bolt on the lid (there should be 7 spacers for 8 bearings) and tighten the wing-nut. Throw all the other hardware (rubber cover shields, washers, spacers, nuts, etc.) that you want to clean into the Cleaning Unit and fill about half-way with Isopropyl Alcohol. Screw on the lid and shake the Cleaning Unit vigorously! easy huh?
5. Pour out the dirty Isopropyl Alcohol from the previous wash. While the lid is still unscrewed rotate each of the bearings on the main bolt a few turns to loosen more gunk and help clean the bearings.
6. Repeat steps 4-6 until the Isopropyl Alcohol in the Cleaning Unit remains clear and you feel that the bearings are clean.
7. Remove the bearings and other hardware from the Cleaning Unit and dry them quickly (alcohol evaporates quickly so this will not take long). Make sure to spin the bearings several times to completely dry the insides.
8. Add one to two drops of Bones Speed Cream to one or two of the balls in each bearing. I always add two drops as an insurance policy, the excess will be slung out by centrifugal force anyways.
9. Replace the rubber cover shields on each bearing by pressing them in (rubber side out) until it is fully sealed against the lip of the outer bearing casing.
10. To better protect the bearing from grime and dirt, place one drop of Bones Speed Cream on the outside of the rubber cover shield and smear it around with your finger until the oil fills in any gaps in the seal.
11. Reassemble your wheel by placing two bearings at a time on each side of one of your skate-trucks with the rubber cover shield sides facing the kingpin of the truck. Take one wheel in each hand and use the skate-truck to line up the bearings with the wheel cores. Now press the wheels together while on the truck to seat the bearings. Take off the wheels, flip them over, and repeat for the other two bearings (if you use internal bearing spacers do not forget to replace them in the cores!). You eventually should have two bearings in each wheel that both have the rubber cover shield sides facing out and away from the inner core.
12. When you mount the wheels back on the trucks, make sure to replace the two washers for each wheel. These prevent friction from loosening the wheel nut and any damage to the bearings from the trucks. The correct order is: Washer, Wheel, Washer, Nut. Use your skatetool to tighten the wheel nut but make sure not to over-tighten. The wheel should ideally turn freely but not jiggle more than a little bit on the axle.
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Congratulations! You’ve cleaned your bearings. You should do this again whenever they look really dirty, see heavy use, or get wet to protect them from damage and ensure that you have a great ride while using them. Now go out, have fun, and skate! I promise you will feel the difference.
Skate to live, live to skate!
Sincerely,
Clayton C.